HC S1 929 Audio Project
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Re: HC S1 929 Audio Project
Cheers
For now, I'll look at upgrading my battery to a dry cell battery with bigger CCA count on it. Eventually, I'd like to run 2 batteries, but that does cost money unfortunately So that's for later, that move.
I'm upgrade my earth cables under the bonnet to suit my amplifier power cable (all 0 gauge wiring), so that'll stop the "disco light dimming" on the head unit. I'm actually curious to know what the amp output on the on the SOHC JE V6s are. 80A? 90A?
My DREAM alternator would be one of these bad boys....
For now, I'll look at upgrading my battery to a dry cell battery with bigger CCA count on it. Eventually, I'd like to run 2 batteries, but that does cost money unfortunately So that's for later, that move.
I'm upgrade my earth cables under the bonnet to suit my amplifier power cable (all 0 gauge wiring), so that'll stop the "disco light dimming" on the head unit. I'm actually curious to know what the amp output on the on the SOHC JE V6s are. 80A? 90A?
My DREAM alternator would be one of these bad boys....
1988 MAZDA 929 HC SERIES 1 HARDTOP
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Re: HC S1 929 Audio Project
the standard is 70A
you can update to EF-EL Falcon V8 110A but you will need to change the pulley and the HC one does not fit (shaft is larger diameter on Falcon)
you can update to EF-EL Falcon V8 110A but you will need to change the pulley and the HC one does not fit (shaft is larger diameter on Falcon)
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Re: HC S1 929 Audio Project
70Amp, hey? Thanks for that.... yeah, just as I thought... a soft unit on board! :p Time for an ugrade. Those big 2 channels I have soak up a bit of juice.. eventually, I want to upgrade to a 3rd 2 channel. Total amps in mind.. 5 V12s I know.. crazy. So a bigger alternator would be on the cards.
That alternator for the Fords.... is that a 12.2V/13.8V/14.4V? Would you know, Matsuda9?
That alternator for the Fords.... is that a 12.2V/13.8V/14.4V? Would you know, Matsuda9?
1988 MAZDA 929 HC SERIES 1 HARDTOP
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Re: HC S1 929 Audio Project
no idea, i think they are 14V just like ours (the plugs and wiring is the same)
i remember Sim_rx3 talking about it, that's where i got the idea, had a look at the unit its identical to ours only pulley is multi rib and the shaft diameter is 2 mm larger (from memory).... i think this would be straight swap for a HD though.
i remember Sim_rx3 talking about it, that's where i got the idea, had a look at the unit its identical to ours only pulley is multi rib and the shaft diameter is 2 mm larger (from memory).... i think this would be straight swap for a HD though.
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Re: HC S1 929 Audio Project
I'll do my research on that one Cheers, dude
1988 MAZDA 929 HC SERIES 1 HARDTOP
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Re: HC S1 929 Audio Project
if you do come up with a good pulley to use, let me know, cause i looked at changing but have not really looked into the pulleys
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Re: HC S1 929 Audio Project
No worries. It'll definitely be something to post up on here for all to benefit from
1988 MAZDA 929 HC SERIES 1 HARDTOP
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Well... I think I was able to acquire ANOTHER goodie for my install. I should have it by the second week in Feb.
It's a Phoenix Gold DD5
The reason why this is handy for me is 2 reasons...
1) It'll go back VERY well in the install next to the Bass CUBE :mrgreen:
2) More importantly... (as quoted from the manual)
"The TDD-5 (Desmazes Delayeator) is designed to eliminate the spaghetti of butt connectors , relays, and heatshrunk solder connections that
are buried somewhere in the vehicle never to be seen. The TDD-5 allows both the remote and 12 volt power sources to be safely fused
and displayed in a neat and organized fashion. It also allows trouble shooting of system problems from one simple location.
The TDD-5 also includes a revolutionary turn on and off delay system to eliminate turn on/off noises. The six delayed remote outputs are
used to turn the system’s amplifiers on and off. These six outputs can delay an amplifier from turning on for up to 8 seconds. It is ideal that the amplifier
should always turn on last. This is because if equipment (equalizers, processors, crossovers, navigation systems, etc.) up stream from the amplifier has a
turn on noise, the amplifier will not pass the noise to the speakers if the amplifier has not turned on yet. If the amplifier is off it can’t pass any signal
(i.e. turn on noises) from up stream components to the speakers. However, if the amplifier itself is the cause of the turn on-off noise there is little you
can do to stop the turn on-off noise except for using a different amplifier.
The delayed outputs are also used to keep noisy components on for a longer period of time. Th is allows the amplifier to shut off first, then the other
components can turn off. If the equipment up stream has a turn off noise that is sent down stream to the amplifier it won’t pass the turn off noise to the
speaker, because the amplifier has already turned off.
Amplifiers should TURN ON LAST and TURN OFF FIRST to eliminate turn on/off noise problems."
Pretty handy, hey?
It's a Phoenix Gold DD5
The reason why this is handy for me is 2 reasons...
1) It'll go back VERY well in the install next to the Bass CUBE :mrgreen:
2) More importantly... (as quoted from the manual)
"The TDD-5 (Desmazes Delayeator) is designed to eliminate the spaghetti of butt connectors , relays, and heatshrunk solder connections that
are buried somewhere in the vehicle never to be seen. The TDD-5 allows both the remote and 12 volt power sources to be safely fused
and displayed in a neat and organized fashion. It also allows trouble shooting of system problems from one simple location.
The TDD-5 also includes a revolutionary turn on and off delay system to eliminate turn on/off noises. The six delayed remote outputs are
used to turn the system’s amplifiers on and off. These six outputs can delay an amplifier from turning on for up to 8 seconds. It is ideal that the amplifier
should always turn on last. This is because if equipment (equalizers, processors, crossovers, navigation systems, etc.) up stream from the amplifier has a
turn on noise, the amplifier will not pass the noise to the speakers if the amplifier has not turned on yet. If the amplifier is off it can’t pass any signal
(i.e. turn on noises) from up stream components to the speakers. However, if the amplifier itself is the cause of the turn on-off noise there is little you
can do to stop the turn on-off noise except for using a different amplifier.
The delayed outputs are also used to keep noisy components on for a longer period of time. Th is allows the amplifier to shut off first, then the other
components can turn off. If the equipment up stream has a turn off noise that is sent down stream to the amplifier it won’t pass the turn off noise to the
speaker, because the amplifier has already turned off.
Amplifiers should TURN ON LAST and TURN OFF FIRST to eliminate turn on/off noise problems."
Pretty handy, hey?
1988 MAZDA 929 HC SERIES 1 HARDTOP
CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION
CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION